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African Dreams: Our 28 Days in Senegal and Sierra Leone – Part I
by Zarinah El-Amin Naeem
On December 5, 2008 my husband and I, along with our two year old son, departed for Dakar, Senegal West Africa. It was the beginning of a beautiful (and challenging) 28 day trip that took us from the sandy roads of Senegal, to the lush green “Lion Mountains” of Sierra Leone. Our goals were simple: to visit Dr. Viola Vaughn, Director of 10,000 Girls, a burgeoning Girls Entrepreneurial program in Kaolack, Senegal, and to re-access the living conditions in Sierra Leone (the country featured in the film Blood Diamonds).
Having worked in international development, I’ve been blessed to visit the region before, but this trip was different. It was not only the first time I would travel abroad with a child; it was the first time I worked outside of auspices of a large organization. It was also the first time I attempted to fund a development trip to Africa as a graduate student – we were on our own dime and counting every penny!
My husband and I were both excited to see what we could accomplish, but the responsibilities of the trip were heavy. For the past 4 years, God has blessed me to financially support the education of 5 girls in Sierra Leone. I promised the girls I was coming back in 2008 and breaking that promise was not an option.
With low funds I needed to come back with a plan – hence our trip to explore the ins and outs of the 10,000 Girls project. Briefly, Senegal has a “three strikes you’re out” education policy. If you fail any exam three times, you are out of the school system FOREVER. Unfortunately, great numbers of girls who have been kept from school for marriage, work or health reasons, can no longer finish their education. The 10,000 Girls program was uniquely designed as a way to support these young women financially, as well as keep other girls from falling into the same fate. I met young women like Dahsira, who once braided hair for small change and is now a fully trained accountant. She is responsible for the entire operation’s record keeping. Dr. Viola Vaughn explained, “All of my girls were once described as ‘rejects’ or girls who couldn’t learn. But look at what they’ve done! These girls are running their own businesses.” I had the same hopes for my girls in Sierra Leone.
It’s sad, but what I’ve noticed during my travels is that while intelligence, diligence and the values of hard work are world-wide, access to education and health care is not. Many times I’ve wept after hearing the story of a young girl or boy who died from malaria – a preventable and curable disease. Why must that child die when our world is more than able to provide?
But Africa is not all about disease, malnutrition or lack of education and it’s time we paint a more realistic picture. It’s time we share the beauty of generations of families who both love and support each other. It’s time we relate the story of the little boy who shares his lollipop with his entire group of friends because candy for one, is candy for all. It’s time we talk about the way guests and visitors are greeted with open arms, both day and night. Or the way my two year old could go outside and play without fear of him being snatched by some perverted pedophile. There was always a pair of caring eyes watching over him.
It’s time we talk about the African spirituality and deep connection to the land that has existed long before America turned “green.” How American books like “The Secret” are not new – they have simply reworded knowledge that has long been available. And it’s time we paint a different picture of Islam, a way of life for over 1 billion people world wide. Senegal is a Muslim country, and Kaolack is indeed one of the most spiritual cities in the world. Nightly we heard the sounds of those praying dhikr (remembrance of God) and five times daily we heard the adhan or call to prayer. On Eid, a major Muslim holiday, my soul was enlivened to see thousands of worshippers, all colorfully dressed in their best and focused on pleasing the Lord. It was in this city that I sat down with an Imam and he explained that the achievement of the Obamas and other successful peoples of color in the world can not be left to them alone. Many tears have been shed and many prayers have been sent up since our ancestors left the shores of Africa.
So along with pictures of thatched roof villages and overstuffed public vans, I shot pictures of baobab trees – landmarks of the Senegal region who offer their shade as refuge from the hot sun. I took pictures of the string of cows slowing crossing in front of us and creating their own yield and stop signs. I took pictures of seemingly paradox of tiny motorbikes with 3 passengers next to 2007 Mercedes Benzes all along side trash filled donkey carts. And I took pictures of people praying to God.
In the city of Touba, I was both impressed and proud of the Mourids who founded this magical place, home to one of the largest masjids in Africa - built without any outside funding. This city breaks any of the “Africans are poor and unorganized” stereotypes you’ve ever heard (and that are perpetuated by the images of Africa we are shown).
Like any place in the world, West Africa has its challenges but we must share the beauty and knowledge available as well. This has been a particularly remarkable trip and I hope that these words have encouraged you to discover Africa for yourself. Let us begin to forge connections based on mutual understandings, both on an international and local level. There are many African immigrants in the Kalamazoo region that we can reach out to. Join me in going beyond what the TV says about Africa, and into the hearts and minds of the people themselves. It is truly an enriching experience!
Part II of this article will highlight our time in Sierra Leone including our work with the LIFE orphanage, the Dream/Vision party we held with girls in Sierra Leone as well as a water project we are hoping to complete this first quarter.
Zarinah El-Amin Naeem is the author of Jihad of the Soul: Single Muslims Negotiating Religion, Identity and Desire (available on www.niyah.net). She is also the founder and CEO of The Niyah Company which specializes in intercultural workshops as well as family events. Locally, she is the community outreach coordinator for RACE: Are we so different?, a family exhibit coming to Kalamazoo Valley Museum Fall 2010. Visit her online at www.niyah.net or email her at Zarinah@niyah.net
Everyday Reflections
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